Roman shoe-makers contributed a wide variety of shoes and sandals to the Mediterranean world. The generic indoor shoe was a solea, while outdoor sandals covered the entire foot and fastened in front with straps.
These strapped sandals quickly became a marker of wealth and status. Some even featured intricate punch designs on their insoles.
Solea
Romans were masters of tanning, which allowed them to produce supple leather for sandals and tougher materials for armor. They used differences in footwear to show status and power. For instance, senators wore shoes that were secured at the back with four black thongs while emperors preferred a shoe called the calcein (plural of calceus). The generic outdoor shoe was the crepida and could be made in several different styles. Some people wore high ornate boots like the cothurnus to show status and wealth.
The standard indoor shoe was the solea, a light shoe of leather or papyrus. Romans also wore enclosed shoes with rounded toes. These were a practical choice for warm weather, as they kept the foot cool while providing more protection and traction. Roman soldiers traveled with Roman Sandals known as sutors, who were able to craft sandals and other shoes quickly to keep the army agile. They even crafted caligae, heavy-soled shoes, for use on the front lines.
Carbatinae
A sandal of this type, called a carbatina, was found on the site by Vegard Vike, a conservator at Oslo’s Kulturhistorisk Museum. It consists of one piece of leather stitched into shape at the heel, wrapped around the sole and fastened at the top by thongs. It is thought to have been worn by peasants at a time when going barefoot was a sign of poverty.
Shoes encasing the whole foot were known as caligae in ancient Rome, and these were often made of fine leather. They could be dyed to match the color of a person’s clothing, and upper-class Romans favored shoes with wide straps that passed under the foot and crisscrossed up the lower leg. In military camps, sutors (shoemakers) traveled with soldiers to ensure their shoes remained in good condition. This also helped the armies move quickly over difficult terrain. Several pairs of caligae with embroidered patterns have been discovered at archaeological sites in northern Britain, including Vindolanda.
Gladiator sandals
Initially worn by Roman soldiers to protect their feet while fighting in the arena, gladiator sandals quickly became an iconic style. The sandals featured straps that secured the foot, ankle, and calves, as well as a braided thong or leather cord. The strappy designs offered ample support while also giving the wearer an elegant look.
Later, the gladiator sandal was upgraded to feature a heel and details such as metallic finishes or bright colors. Today, this sandal is still in fashion and can be seen on many celebrities and designers’ runways.
The versatility of these sandals makes them a perfect summer wardrobe staple for women and men. You can pair them with casual outfits such as a pair of jeans or short jumpsuits (AKA rompers). For those who wish to elongate their legs, opt for a long gladiator style that covers the ankle bone or higher. To add a chic and feminine touch, you can wear them with floral or floral-printed dresses.
Enclosed sandals
What started as the most basic of shoes-something solid strapped to the foot that offered protection-quickly became a marker of status, rank, and fashion. Romans were responsible for inventing a wide variety of distinctive shoe styles.
Civilians wore sandals in their daily lives while soldiers used enclosed sandals called caligae as the main footwear for combat and travel. The rugged yet soft construction of these shoes allowed a soldier to maintain foot integrity even over rough terrain and prevented blistering.
These versatile sandals can be dressy or casual and have the potential to look great with a pair of high-rise denim shorts with rolled-up cuffs and a monochrome crop top. One of our editors even backpacked in them after suffering from blisters in her hiking boots, and came away impressed with their all-around comfort and sturdiness. Like all shoes, however, it’s important to get a proper fit to prevent discomfort and injuries. For this reason, we encourage you to try them on before buying them.